EAS Reinstatement

The EAS system had been disabled and completely bypassed. The pipes leading into the air compressor were removed and had std schrader valves fitted on the ends.

A custom loom had also been fitted between a connector on the BECM to force it into thinking the EAS was in manual mode.

At first it seemed reasonable to simply pump each air spring up using a std airline, in practice getting it nice and level was a bit more tricky.

The actual EAS pump looked very new and had been replaced sometime recently. So I decided I wanted to reinstate the system - or at least understand what was wrong with it.

EAS Manual mode loom and manual inflation valves.

See below on how to create one yourself.

To get it working all I did was reverse everything that the instructions said to remove!

• Replace the missing delay timer.
• Reconnect the EAS ECU under the passenger seat
• Reconnect the dashboard switch that sets the level,
• Re-insert the air pipes into the valve block
• reconnect the connectors inside the valve block*
• Remove the EAS bypass loom (blue above) from the BECM.

With all this done, the pump still wouldn’t start. So out with the faultmate diagnostics - in the inputs section all the height sensors were reading values and inputs from other parts of the car were appearing.

Commanding various tests like opening valves or running the pump would result in clicks of relays - so I knew we had some life. The height button on the centre console had all its lights on - which looked like its was trying to tell me something.

I then noticed that the pump over temp sensor was showing, so googled how to test the sensor - but as soon as I removed the EAS cover I noticed that the pump wasn’t even plugged in!

With that re-connected, the overtemp was cleared and I was able to manually command the pump to start - but it still wouldn’t run on its own accord. Then I realised the tailgate was open, causing an inhibit - cleared that.

Then it still wouldn’t run - so in desperation I started the engine as I saw the voltage was low on the inputs page. Low and behold the pump starts up and the lights go out on the dashboard! - so that was just lack of experience on my part.

So in summary, you need all the doors shut including the tailgate and the engine running for the pump to run.

I don’t actually know why the EAS was bypassed, as apart from replacing the missing delay timer I couldn’t find anything wrong with it.

EAS Fault Message Override

To clear the ‘EAS Fault, slow 35mph max” warning from the dash, put two jumpers on the connector to the ECU:

The EAS computer is under the driver’s seat, screwed to the floorboards. You need to remove the plastic trim under - drivers seat to see it, there is also a black cover over the computer. Disconnect the wiring connector from the ECU, there is a screw in the end of the plug, remove that and the back cover of the plug will slide off.

With the cover off you can see the numbers on each wire, using 2 separate jumper wires (just short lengths of scrap wire) connect One Jumper from pin 7 to pin 18 (ground ) The other from pin 25 to pin 1 (+ 12v).

When you startup you will get a soft beep and short “EAS manual” message for a second or two then normal message centre operation will resume.

This will work anytime the ECU is disconnected -lE when in hard fault, waiting to get a reset and using manual operating mode.

Note: LEAVE THE EAS ECU DISCONNECTED!”

From:

https://www.rover-renovations.com/kb_results.asp?ID=85

P38 EAS Height calibration blocks

Whilst changing the air suspension springs I allowed the offside front Axle to drop down to the floor. I thought nothing of it at the time, but once the car was back together I noticed the car was quite a bit lower on that side.

No problem I thought, little bit of messing around with the EAS will have that sorted out.  After spending probably two hours trying to get the car level  by measuring from the wheel centre to the bottom of the arch and not really getting anywhere with it, I gave up and decided to have a think and a bit of research. I later discovered that my wheel arch heights are not consistent on all 4 corners.

I came across a discussion and a photo of the proper Land Rover calibration blocks, tool number LRT60-003. Ron Becket posted the dimensions for the blocks here. This all looked pretty straight forward, so I knocked up a pair on the lathe.

I put the blocks in the bump-stops and lowered the car onto them. I was expecting that the longer block would be the “standard” ride height. But it was almost the same height as the extended height.  A little more head scratching and reading found this thread. Which describes how there should be 100mm between the bump stop and the front axle and 105 for the rear. I had plenty of 30mm Delrin (Nylon), so decided to make some new ones up - which was just a case of cutting the 30mm rod to the correct length - no machining is required.

Left: Genuine Land Rover LRT 60-003 height calibration blocks.

Far right: my copy (in black)

Near right - my DIY selection that actually worked. Made from 30mm OD delrin.

With the 100/105mm blocks fitted, the readings from all the height sensors were almost spot on, with the exception of the front offside sensor. This was at least 10 points out. So I clearly affected the calibration of the unit when I let the axle drop down.

So with the suspension dropped down on the blocks, you simply read the current values from all the sensors and put then back into the saved values. You can see that my offside front is out by 5 steps:

Next I wanted to check the extended ride height - which is 40mm higher than standard. So I simply made up some 40mm spacers to go underneath the std right height spacers. Again the offside sensor was significantly different to the other readings - this time by 10 points - which confirmed my hunch that I damaged the sensor.

Motorway (highway) mode is 25mm lower than standard, so I made some new blocks up which were 75mm long. Again, I lowered the car onto the blocks and yet again the front nearside sensor was way out from the other readings which were all within 1 or 2 points of the target.

Access mode requires a 35mm block - the problem is that it would get stuck inside the bump stop because its so short. So I just guessed the figure based on all the other results I had got.

Summary

As noted on the other threads, I also found that the distance from the wheel to the wheel-arch wasn’t consistent - so using a tape measure isn’t going to be as effective as making your own calibration blocks.

You can use Storey Wilson's software to do these adjustments too.

Update:

Car ended up lop sided again, so I purchased a new height sensor. There seems to be a few types available - this is a “kit” which uses a modern sensor which comes with a bracket and lead to adapt it onto a P38.  Fitted without any problems. I re calibrated the suspension again on the values were with a few numbers of each other.

Britpart STC3579AA - was about £65 from LR parts.

Easy to fit - just lever the wheel arch liner back to access the electrical connector.