Installation

The existing dual plane performer RPM manifold had been removed after making sure the engine was a TDC on No.1 Cylinder.

The fuel rail mountings have been finalised after fabricating the throttle and kick-down cable brackets.

By using both carb spacers i can refit my old Edelbrock carb. This will enable me to re-setup the ignition timing to a known good state. It also allows me to revert to carbs if i need to.

The throttle body in place..

The water temp sender used a smaller thread than the manifold, so a insert was made and welded into the manifold.

Before going to sand-blasting, the manifold is going to be ported.  The corners of the inlet needs a better radius on it and the ports need matching to the heads. Mr Victor makes exceedingly nice manifolds, but George Mez makes them better.

Update:

The Car has been started, although only briefly because the fuel system was running from a Jerry Can, not exactly safe! Here's a 2.8Mb video of it: Click here for 2.8Mb Video

Bad Day in the workshop...

I need to fit a sump to the petrol tank so i don’t get starvation round corners and up hills. Whilst it was off, i decided to expand the tank because it only holds 8 gallons. Simple I thought, bit of sheet steel welded on the back - job done.

Things were going nicely and got to this stage:

However, it quickly became apparent (given this is a 4x4 and will experience extreme angles) that even with a sump fitted, this expanded tank design will suffer terribly from starvation.  

This is a picture of the tank in normal position. Imagine it a 45' forwards or backwards, all the petrol would slosh to the back. So this idea has been abandoned, I'll just fit a small sump on the bottom, and patch up the great big holes in the tank.!

After a complete nightmare with the petrol tank, and the re-welding of, I've finally got it all reinstated and got the car running!. This photo shows me about to got on my first proper drive. Note the 5 Kilo C02 fire extinguisher in the foot-well.

I managed to obtain a 2 wire Idle solenoid, initial bench testing indicated that i could use various values of resistor to achieve the desired amount of opening (and hence idle) but basically it's either open or closed. When its open, the car idles?! at 2000 rpm, so i need to fit some sort of air flow restrictor in the hose.

Luckily, i could simply fit a piece of 15mm copper tube in my 1" spacer.

I inserted a small piece of pipe inside the solenoid to reduce the ID to around 6mm, which gives a nice fast idle. Notice that the vacuum side of everything is clamped on. If this sprung a leak, revs would rise to around 2000rpm!